Metromix has an article about “Chicago alternatives to hot celeb-owned restaurants on the coasts”, such as Justin Timberlake’s Southern Hospitality (it recommends Smoke Daddy for low-key BBQ and down-home cookin’) and suggests Japonais as a substitute for Ashton Kutcher’s Geisha House, which I’m sure offers delights with other ethnically-sensitive names like Mr. Miyagi’s Maki and I Love You Long Time Lychee Saketinis.
While the Metromix piece is amusing, it’s ultimately pointless — Chicago has a wealth of first-class restaurants, and we don’t need starlets-of-the-month to lure people to our already excellent dining options. But if you must, we do have a couple of celebrity-owned restaurants other than the obvious Ditka’s and Harry Caray’s. one sixtyblue (1400 W. Randolph, 312-850-0303), partially owned by Michael Jordan, serves upscale contemporary American in the West Loop, and RL (115 E. Chicago, 312-475-1100) is Ralph Lauren’s posh, classic American spot and supposedly a favorite of Oprah’s.
And of course we have our share of “celebrity chefs” like Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill and Topolobampo), Charlie Trotter (Charlie Trotter’s), Grant Achatz (Alinea), Homaro Cantu (Moto), Graham Elliot Bowles (Avenues), and Art Smith (Table 52) among others. Wouldn’t you rather eat at restaurants where the celebrities there are famous for, say, cooking?
4 Comments
couldn’t agree more. forget a ban on trans fats–keep chicago a celebrity-free zone!
on a similar note, would love to know your take on celebrity chefs in general.
Regarding celebrity chefs: I don’t have a problem with them, per se — it depends on the chef. I love Jamie Oliver, can’t stand Rachael Ray. (I have a hard time calling her a chef, anyway.)
The celebrity chef phenomenon is interesting because in the past ten years or so, what was once a blue-collar job has been elevated to rock-star status, complete with the pay, paparazzi, and groupies. Of course, there were very famous chefs before this (Julia Child comes to mind), but not with the crazy ubiquitousness and branding you see today.
I think the problem with celebrity chefs is that many of them have left the kitchen to pursue other ventures like creating product lines, opening restaurant chains, starring in TV shows (remember that disastrous Emeril sitcom?), etc. Not that any of those things are inherently bad, but to non-cooks and professional cooks alike, it can start to reek of fame-grubbing, and we Americans hate blatant opportunists, though we’re entranced by them and maybe a little envious at the same time. How else to explain the popularity of tabloids?
Anyway, I think author Michael Ruhlman put it best: “America loves the notion of chef as artist, the creative genius working magic in his or her kitchen. That same chef, however, is considerably less compelling when he or she becomes a commercial for raisins or espresso or pots and pans.”
On the other hand, leaving the marketing onslaught out of the picture, celebrity chefs have contributed a lot of positive things like starting and raising money for charities, raising the average person’s awareness of important issues like poverty, hunger, and sustainable farming, and simply teaching people to cook and eat well. The passion for food is probably what compelled any chef to get into the industry in the first place, and if they can spread the love with their celebrity, all the better.
So that’s my very long-winded answer to your short question.
If you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend a book called The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity by Michael Ruhlmann, which I cited from above. Enjoy!
Excellent answer–I have to agree. I love Jamie Oliver, too…and Julia Child, and Martin Yan, and Jacques Pépin. Familiar PBS faces
I guess my problem is just with arrogant or talentless celebs (cough, Rachael Ray), be they chefs, musicians or designers, etc.
When celebs “design” clothing lines, I have to admit I take it on a case by case basis: Stephon Marbury’s sneaks for Steve & Barry’s were a pretty cool idea. But SJP’s Bitten line? I had high hopes, but it’s a disaster. Hehe
I agree about arrogant or talentless celebs of any kind. I’m disappointed with SJP’s line as well — and it looked so cute on TV! I thought Madonna’s H&M line was terrible, but then again, maybe it’s because I can’t stand Madonna.
Kate Moss Topshop was okay but definitely not worth the price, esp with the British pound markup.
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